Peter Pilotto Takes Flight

The designers presented a more mature and convincing collection boosted by bright hues, shots of metallics and a light and genial air of summery carelessness.

LONDON, United Kingdom — Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos staged their show in their studio in North London, right by Regents Canal, on a lovely, lazy Sunday afternoon. The rather non-fashion-y surroundings and the intimacy of their workplace brought a light and familiar mood to the proceedings.

The collection was all uplifting and energetic: working around a tropical baroque theme, the designers managed to merge freedom of spirit, a fresh take on sensuality and their trademark, formal exploration of the structure of a dress. While sometimes, the duo’s proclivity for a hyper visual approach — think prints, patterns and patches aplenty — feels a little bit too studied, this season the goings were more spontaneous and weightless; the simplicity of the flounced and cinched forms got a boost from bright hues, metallic shots and a genial air of summery carelessness.

The layering of dresses over jacquard tops might not make it into real life, and the patch-covered denim pieces might have felt too referential of the Eighties, but overall the effort proved mature and convincing.

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